As with most things you’ve read here, what follows is a matter of opinion. If you and I are similarly-minded, then I imagine we are not going to have too much to debate in the below ramblings. If we are found to not share such ideals, then I defer to the time-proven axiom of “to each their own” and I can still share the field with you if you’d have me.
So in the world of blogs, Instagrams, and tweets, I’ve found a disturbing trend afoot…people are actually exercising in preparation for hunting, and they are actually adjusting their diet accordingly to be lean and trim for hunting season. I hear it called “Hunt Fit” and it is appearing in hashtag after hashtag. Now this is all well and good if you are going to go chasing elk or sheep or Rocky Mountain goats at high altitude, but otherwise, to me it smacks of a little too much preparation. Now the hardcore fitness fanatics may instead refer to it as dedication, or motivation, or some other “-ation” and that is fine….I’m not here to disabuse anyone of their right to do whatever it is that they want to do.
But what I want to do is shoot my own dinner and then make it as decadent and over-the-top enjoyable as I can. Because I #HuntFat.
So in that spirit, here is what I did with some ducks that I had on hand two nights ago. I can’t describe how good it was, so I’ll just tell you how I did it and then if you want to try it, you can. This is how I made what I call pan seared duck with mushroom-tarragon cream sauce with a side of mushroom-cumin risotto. I’m not much for weights and measures, so you may want to read this whole thing first and come up with a plan of attack to make sure it all comes together at the same time.
Take a standard package of sliced mushrooms and simmer them in a pot with some salt, pepper, and four cups of water. Why standard store-bought mushrooms? Because foraging the ones in my suburban backyard seemed like a bad idea. Don’t boil them, just let them sort of become a hot broth. This is the stock for the risotto. I’ll tell you what to do with it later.
Put an 1/8 of an inch coat of olive oil in a pan over medium-low to medium heat and add one diced onion and three minced cloves of garlic. Do not brown these, just keep them moving until they are soft. Once soft add the arborio rice. It absolutely must be arborio rice…why? Because that is what risotto is made of. If it isn’t arborio, it is just a rice dish. But I digress. Add about a large handful of rice for each person you are cooking for. The above measurements for mushrooms, onion, and garlic are based on about three large handfuls of rice. Stir the rice with the onion and garlic until the rice is coated with oil and everything is getting along nicely. Again, don’t brown any of this stuff. At this point I also added some ground cumin because it is kind of rustic and smokey, and I like that.
Take a splash of white wine and throw it in the pan with the rice, onion, and garlic. Not too much, maybe half a glass. Throw some more wine into yourself if you feel it is necessary.
Once the rice is reduced a bit, turn your attention back to the simmering, hot mushroom broth. Ladle a few splashes of it into the pan with the rice and then just simmer it until the rice absorbs it. Once the amount of liquid in the pan starts to get low, throw some more in. If some of the mushrooms you made the stock with happen to fall in, so be it. They’re going to go in there eventually anyhow.
Keep doing this until you either run out of stock (you could top up with equally hot water, but why would you?) or until the dish is creamy, but not mushy. Risotto is funny that way…just keep in mind that you aren’t trying to make rice porridge.
Put in the mushrooms you used for the stock and then add some kind of dairy. I’ve used cream cheese, heavy cream, and all varieties of cheese. Friday night I shredded half a block of six-year-old sharp white cheddar and stirred it through the dish. Parmesan is the standard though.
Once the cheese is melted, I added a bit of chopped basil and then I was very happy with myself.
First things first. Shoot a duck; a couple of them if you can. Do this in advance of starting the recipe.
Take said ducks and pluck them. Skin on is critical to this (in my opinion) so later season ducks with few to no pin-feathers is ideal. Now butcher the ducks, this recipe is just for the breasts so take the breasts of the ducks and get them as dry as possible. Braise, slow-cook, or otherwise love the legs; but that’s for another post.
Pre-heat your oven to 450 degrees. Score the duck breasts (that is cut a checkerboard or cross-hatch pattern in the skin), then put them, skin side down, in a hot pan over medium-high heat. I put just a little bit of oil in the pan to help the browning along. Sear the skin side until it is a deep gold-brown colour, then flip them over. By now, your oven should be heated. Take the pan (did I mention it should be oven safe? Okay now I have.) and put it in the oven for about fifteen minutes. After fifteen minutes take the meat out of the pan and cover it in foil for five to ten minutes.
Slice against the grain into pieces about a 1/4 inch think. Pour the sauce over it.
Wait, you haven’t made the sauce because I haven’t old you how? Right.
Take the pan drippings from the duck and add a splash of whatever liquid you like. I used white wine (since I had some open) but you could easily use red wine, whiskey, cognac, or any kind of stock (if you have any mushroom stock left, as I did, you could add that too, which I added as well as the wine.) Just add enough to get the brown bits on the pan to dissolve. That’s duck flavour and you do not want to waste it.
Once I had all the brown bits off the bottom of the pan, I added some heavy cream to thicken it and a bit of chopped tarragon. Basil or parsley or oregano would work here too. Or no herbs. Whatever.
Reduce this until coats the back of a spoon (or really reduce it into a near syrup) and add just a bit of butter to make it rich.
Drizzle this over the duck meat, or do what I did and float the duck meat in it. Don’t judge me.
There are none. Don’t be ridiculous.
I served this with a double dram of Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve rye whiskey in a nice glass. You’ll drink what you like with it, just make sure it is alcoholic so you can really feel like a debauched, well-fed epicurean.
So there you have it. It might sound a bit too over the top when compared with the simple pleasures of a roast mallard or a smokey stick of Canada Goose jerky, and while those are good too, sometimes it is just nice to really spoil yourself, eat 1000 calories in a single sitting, and not really give a damn about how many sit-ups you’ll have to do in repentance for enjoying the bounty of the hunt.
Because if you are hunting and not eating it, then you are missing out on the best part, friend.
Waterfowl hunting in general is a multi-seasonal pursuit. Some days are pure bluebird, others downright sleety and nasty. The vast majority of days fall in between those two extremes so for me versatility is key. I have a three-in-one coat from Remington in Realtree AP camo that I use interchangeably for turkey and waterfowl hunting. It takes me through the whole run of waterfowl season. When it is hot during the early September resident goose hunting, I can wear a t-shirt and the light outer shell or put on a camo long sleeve t-shirt and leave the coat at home altogether. Into October and November, I can choose to layer with the shell and insulating liner of the coat, or I can go with more base layers and wear just the shell again. It all depends on how cold, rainy, windy, sunny, or snowy things are looking to get. In December, I go with both the insulating liner and the outer shell and layer appropriately. It has plenty of pockets for licenses, shells, knives, and the other accoutrements that a waterfowler is known to have on hand (Mars bars and Gatorade anyone?!).
The wait is over for you Canadian waterfowlers.
As of July 14th, 2011 Environment Canada has posted the national regulations here for 2011-2012. The provincial links are all there for the viewing at the landing page, so I won’t bore you all by re-posting them all here province by province.
Usually it takes a day or two for the licenses to be distributed, but based on the phone conversation I had with Environment Canada today, all the licenses should be out and available for sale by mid-next week, if they are not out at some distributors already.
This is as sure a sign that autumn is coming as I know, and I couldn’t be happier.